AlienXtx
Nignog
Lockright LE-1615 auto locker 05-10 Tacoma base/Sr5 non LSD trucks.
Available at East Coast Gear Supply part number pt-1615, $354 with shipping.
Tools you will need
a good floor jack and jack stands
Dead Blow hammer
Flat tip screwdriver
10,14,17 and 24mm wrenches and sockets and extensions
Impact gun
have a tub of assembly grease will help along with some good rtv black silicon
3qts of diff fliud 75w-90
some plastic bages to lable and keep bolts etc. seperated and in order
pain pen will be best for marking ring gear but a sharpy will work too.
First you will need to get the rear axle up on some jack stands and remove the tires, then drain the diff fluid using a 24mm socket.
Mark the drive shaft flange Then disconnect the drive shaft bolts (4x14mm) and push it up out of the way (it will hang up on the exuast hanger pretty good)
Next remove the 4 bolts behind each brake drum (14mm)
Then disconnect the wheel sensor (10mm) and hang it up out of the way taking care to not get it dirty.
Next remove all the bolts holding the brake lines to the rear axel (14mm) (this will let you slide the axel shaft out with out disconnecting the brake lines from drums)
Then remove all the nuts holding the 3rd member on (14mm) You will need atleast one extra person for these next steps but two would be best. First have a person on each side of the axel pull out the shafts 2-3" while you pull the 3rd member out (it's pretty heavy so watch out)
I then took the 3rd and cleaned up the housing real good to keep dirt etc. from getting inside. this is also a good time to remove the old gasket from the 3rd.
Then using a paint marker, mark the ring gear so you will be able to install it back in the same spot. Also mark all 4 corners of the retainers.
remove retainer and gear set taking care to keep up with the shims and what side they came from because they will need to go back the same way. You will then have to use a punch to drive out the small retainer pin that holds the main pin in the assembly in place.
Next you will need to remove the bolts holding the ring gear on (14/17mm) i suggest using a impact on these because they have lock tight on them and are hard to remove.
After removing bolts you will need to slowly work your way around the ring gear using a dead blow hammer. do this step slowly so that the gear does not get crooked .
Next you will need to follow the instruction that come with your locker, because they all vary a little.
On this one you have to grease all the pieces so they will stay together for assembly. Take extra care to kep up with the pins and springs and use lots of grease on these because they will need to stay in place till you get the whole assembly installed.
Reinstalling the ring gear is pretty easy, line up your mark and start taping down, after awhile you can thread in 3-4 of the bolts and this will hel it stay sraight while you finish getting in set. I would suggest using red Lock tight on the bolt threads too.
This is a shot of the pins/springs installed, this may also very from locker to locker depending on the make. This one has 8 springs that go together so that you end up with 4 sets of springs inside of each other (use lots of grease so they stay together) you will need to use a screw driver to push the pins up in to one side of the locker then slide in the spring from the side so it holds the pin in place.
you will then need to slide the main retaining pin back into the assembly and reinstall the small pin that holds it in place, then using a punch bent the cast lip back over the hole.
Before putting the 3rd back in make sure your surfaces are clean then apply a 1/4 bead of black RTV silicone on the axel housing, then slide the 3rd into place while your buddys pull the axel shafts back out 2-3". the 3rd should slide in pretty easy, bolt it back up and then you can slide the axel shafts back in place and reinstall the nuts that hold them on. Next install the wheel sensors, brakeline holders and drive shaft.. I would give the silicone 30 min to an hour then refill your diff with right at 3 qt.'s of the diff fluid of your choice, it will start running out of the fill hole when it full. I suggest Royal Purple 75-90.
Feel free to PM me with any questions and I will try and help.
Available at East Coast Gear Supply part number pt-1615, $354 with shipping.
Tools you will need
a good floor jack and jack stands
Dead Blow hammer
Flat tip screwdriver
10,14,17 and 24mm wrenches and sockets and extensions
Impact gun
have a tub of assembly grease will help along with some good rtv black silicon
3qts of diff fliud 75w-90
some plastic bages to lable and keep bolts etc. seperated and in order
pain pen will be best for marking ring gear but a sharpy will work too.
First you will need to get the rear axle up on some jack stands and remove the tires, then drain the diff fluid using a 24mm socket.
Mark the drive shaft flange Then disconnect the drive shaft bolts (4x14mm) and push it up out of the way (it will hang up on the exuast hanger pretty good)
Next remove the 4 bolts behind each brake drum (14mm)
Then disconnect the wheel sensor (10mm) and hang it up out of the way taking care to not get it dirty.
Next remove all the bolts holding the brake lines to the rear axel (14mm) (this will let you slide the axel shaft out with out disconnecting the brake lines from drums)
Then remove all the nuts holding the 3rd member on (14mm) You will need atleast one extra person for these next steps but two would be best. First have a person on each side of the axel pull out the shafts 2-3" while you pull the 3rd member out (it's pretty heavy so watch out)
I then took the 3rd and cleaned up the housing real good to keep dirt etc. from getting inside. this is also a good time to remove the old gasket from the 3rd.
Then using a paint marker, mark the ring gear so you will be able to install it back in the same spot. Also mark all 4 corners of the retainers.
remove retainer and gear set taking care to keep up with the shims and what side they came from because they will need to go back the same way. You will then have to use a punch to drive out the small retainer pin that holds the main pin in the assembly in place.
Next you will need to remove the bolts holding the ring gear on (14/17mm) i suggest using a impact on these because they have lock tight on them and are hard to remove.
After removing bolts you will need to slowly work your way around the ring gear using a dead blow hammer. do this step slowly so that the gear does not get crooked .
Next you will need to follow the instruction that come with your locker, because they all vary a little.
On this one you have to grease all the pieces so they will stay together for assembly. Take extra care to kep up with the pins and springs and use lots of grease on these because they will need to stay in place till you get the whole assembly installed.
Reinstalling the ring gear is pretty easy, line up your mark and start taping down, after awhile you can thread in 3-4 of the bolts and this will hel it stay sraight while you finish getting in set. I would suggest using red Lock tight on the bolt threads too.
This is a shot of the pins/springs installed, this may also very from locker to locker depending on the make. This one has 8 springs that go together so that you end up with 4 sets of springs inside of each other (use lots of grease so they stay together) you will need to use a screw driver to push the pins up in to one side of the locker then slide in the spring from the side so it holds the pin in place.
you will then need to slide the main retaining pin back into the assembly and reinstall the small pin that holds it in place, then using a punch bent the cast lip back over the hole.
Before putting the 3rd back in make sure your surfaces are clean then apply a 1/4 bead of black RTV silicone on the axel housing, then slide the 3rd into place while your buddys pull the axel shafts back out 2-3". the 3rd should slide in pretty easy, bolt it back up and then you can slide the axel shafts back in place and reinstall the nuts that hold them on. Next install the wheel sensors, brakeline holders and drive shaft.. I would give the silicone 30 min to an hour then refill your diff with right at 3 qt.'s of the diff fluid of your choice, it will start running out of the fill hole when it full. I suggest Royal Purple 75-90.
Feel free to PM me with any questions and I will try and help.
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