I bought them from Wheelers.. paid about 100 after it was all said and done. I have a TW one piece driveshaft so I don't have a center bearing.
Would you do that again?
I hear that the Tom Woods CVs are crap because the parts they get are from China. CV driveshaft is definitely the way to go, but I'd get it done at a local shop that uses American made parts. I did it on my regular cab and it solved my wicked vibe issues. Wasn't that expensive because I already had a one piece shaft. Might be a little different if you have to have one made from scratch.As for the TW driveshaft, I would do that over as well. I actually have two of them, one is my spare. I had one that I bent up really badly so I bought a new one. I then had the first one re-tubed as a spare. But my second one had issues with the double cardan unit. I actually went through 2 of them... the original and a replacement that Tom sent me. I think he must have got a bad batch because both only lasted about 6-7 months. I finally took it to a local shop and they rebuilt it for me.. a little more $$ but no more worries. I actually installed the one piece DS before I lifted the truck. I previously had a slight shudder when I took off from a stop. The one piece solved that issue.
The Double Cardan IS the CV. My shaft cost $280 after it was all said and done. I think they gave me a better price because I told him I was thinking about buying a TW instead of modifying mine. It was only a little bit cheaper than buying a new one, but I feel like the quality is better. Zero ProblemsIts not the CV's in TW shafts that go out. Its the double cardan unit, <called the same thing, but not to be confused with the CV in the front of your rig> and I wouldn't doubt that the newer TW shafts have Chinese cardan units. But I don't think my first one did, it was a much higher quality unit. I spoke to my local driveshaft shop and to have a DS built like the TW unit I was looking at over 700 bucks. TW sells them for $475 and thats shipped. When I had the double cardan replaced it was about $350 IIRC, just to replace the double cardan unit, those things are $$$.
The Double Cardan IS the CV. My shaft cost $280 after it was all said and done. I think they gave me a better price because I told him I was thinking about buying a TW instead of modifying mine. It was only a little bit cheaper than buying a new one, but I feel like the quality is better. Zero Problems
I don't think Andy has those leaf springs yet.
The "CV" or Double Cardan is the most expensive component. When I had mine replaced that part alone was about $275, the rest was labor. Next time I do any damage to the DS I'm planning to have the tubing beefed up. Not sure on the factory wall thickness, Marlin states that the older ones where .060, not sure on newer ones. But having some .120 wall or better would be the way to go. FWIW, my OEM two piece DS looked like a toy next to the TW shaft. TW shaft was MUCH larger.
Just because the TW drive shaft was bigger around doesn't mean it's stronger. It means they can use cheaper steel without the shaft bending under the torque from the engine.Not sure on the factory wall thickness, Marlin states that the older ones where .060, not sure on newer ones. But having some .120 wall or better would be the way to go. FWIW, my OEM two piece DS looked like a toy next to the TW shaft. TW shaft was MUCH larger.
stay on topic douche, we're talking about shaftsleaf packs
jkJust because the TW drive shaft was bigger around doesn't mean it's stronger. It means they can use cheaper steel without the shaft bending under the torque from the engine.
Well hell if you're going that thick might as well go whole hog and get some .25 wall DOM and make it bomb proof.