The Home Improvement Thread

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
I've got a shitty electric Remington hand me down. I curse that thing every time I use it. Can't make it 10 min without the blade wanting to fall off

Plug in or battery? I love my Ego 16" chainsaw. It has been great around the house, good for tree removal, and proved my concept when we were in the Ozarks. A good quality battery powered chainsaw that you just grab, squeeze the trigger, and cut. No choke, no fuel, no loud noises, no waste time giving it 20 pulls before it starts.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
My Stihl MS170 has been great and at $180 its a bargain. I wish I had the need for a bigger saw. I would love an Echo Timber Wolf or Stihl Farm Boss.

Stihl really is the way to go. I've never seen one that cheap, but that is great!

Plug in or battery? I love my Ego 16" chainsaw. It has been great around the house, good for tree removal, and proved my concept when we were in the Ozarks. A good quality battery powered chainsaw that you just grab, squeeze the trigger, and cut. No choke, no fuel, no loud noises, no waste time giving it 20 pulls before it starts.

I feel like you are directly talking about me since I spent the entire time trying to get my PoulonPro to start. My chainsaw has the largest engine and longest bar of anyone out there (50cc, 20") and did the least cutting. I finally got it going and it died as I started to cut. I bought a set of carburetor adjustment tools off Amazon for $14 and it starts right up now. I need to make a few very small tweaks to the "H" , or high throttle, adjustment, but overall it has been running like a champ since then.

I was impressed by the EGo though.
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
Not directly. Both of the gas chainsaws spent a decent amount of time getting going. I was taking a break by the time @tex got to cutting.
 

Anathollo

Armorall is my choice of lube
Staff member
Stihl really is the way to go. I've never seen one that cheap, but that is great!



I feel like you are directly talking about me since I spent the entire time trying to get my PoulonPro to start. My chainsaw has the largest engine and longest bar of anyone out there (50cc, 20") and did the least cutting. I finally got it going and it died as I started to cut. I bought a set of carburetor adjustment tools off Amazon for $14 and it starts right up now. I need to make a few very small tweaks to the "H" , or high throttle, adjustment, but overall it has been running like a champ since then.

I was impressed by the EGo though.
x2 on the Stihl.

I have a PoulonPro and always had issues getting it started. Once you get it started, it runs like a champ but damn if your right arm isn't sore by the time you get it going lol It's sat on the shelf ever since my stepdad bought a Stihl.
 

TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER

Anathollo

Armorall is my choice of lube
Staff member
Plug in or battery? I love my Ego 16" chainsaw. It has been great around the house, good for tree removal, and proved my concept when we were in the Ozarks. A good quality battery powered chainsaw that you just grab, squeeze the trigger, and cut. No choke, no fuel, no loud noises, no waste time giving it 20 pulls before it starts.
I've been looking at the DeWalt electric chainsaw for the same reasons for strictly trail or light duty use.
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
I've been looking at the DeWalt electric chainsaw for the same reasons for strictly trail or light duty use.

I have used it on cedar trees around the house up to 16" across without issues. It was great on the trail to jump out, cut, toss firewood in truck, and leave. All in less than 5 mins.
 

Anathollo

Armorall is my choice of lube
Staff member
I have used it on cedar trees around the house up to 16" across without issues. It was great on the trail to jump out, cut, toss firewood in truck, and leave. All in less than 5 mins.
Good to hear.
 

Oswego

n00b
Getting new windows on Friday @Oswego getting them from Alside. Know anything about them?

Sorry, I missed this. Shouldn't I get some sort of alert when I'm tagged? Still have no idea how this forum works after many years = I'm a tech tard.

I rarely go on name alone because even good companies have bad products. I just looked them up and they are in my backyard, but I do not do residential construction and that's prob why I never heard of them.

Got any specifications for the windows? I'd need to know what the glass is per layer (thickness and type of glass) and the solar heat gain coefficient. With that data I could pretty much tell you if they will "perform good" in regards to energy efficiency, but I have no way of telling if the window frames themselves will fall apart in a year or if the insulated units will develop leaks that turn them white from moisture build up.

Most of the jobs I work on give you specifications with some basic vendor choices and then it's up to us to insure the products we supply meet the requirements.

I also have zero experience in your region so things we recommend up here probably would not work good in your area. Either way - you get me the info above and Ill let you know if it's what I would consider efficient.

I am slightly curious why the windows would be coming from this coast when your state is literally full of manufacturers.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
x2 on the Stihl.

I have a PoulonPro and always had issues getting it started. Once you get it started, it runs like a champ but damn if your right arm isn't sore by the time you get it going lol It's sat on the shelf ever since my stepdad bought a Stihl.

I have the adjustment tool now of you want to fix that.
 

Anathollo

Armorall is my choice of lube
Staff member
I have the adjustment tool now of you want to fix that.
Thanks, but I'm good. It just sits on the shelf while the Stihl does all the work lol
 

achirdo

2WD FTW
I want to build some doors like this for my house but have never messed with glass at all. Any of you glass guys have any guidance for me? Also I'm probably gonna have to beef up the door structure as this will probably be ungodly heavy.
Screenshot_20180316-231552.jpg
 

achirdo

2WD FTW
Sorry, I missed this. Shouldn't I get some sort of alert when I'm tagged? Still have no idea how this forum works after many years = I'm a tech tard.

I rarely go on name alone because even good companies have bad products. I just looked them up and they are in my backyard, but I do not do residential construction and that's prob why I never heard of them.

Got any specifications for the windows? I'd need to know what the glass is per layer (thickness and type of glass) and the solar heat gain coefficient. With that data I could pretty much tell you if they will "perform good" in regards to energy efficiency, but I have no way of telling if the window frames themselves will fall apart in a year or if the insulated units will develop leaks that turn them white from moisture build up.

Most of the jobs I work on give you specifications with some basic vendor choices and then it's up to us to insure the products we supply meet the requirements.

I also have zero experience in your region so things we recommend up here probably would not work good in your area. Either way - you get me the info above and Ill let you know if it's what I would consider efficient.

I am slightly curious why the windows would be coming from this coast when your state is literally full of manufacturers.
Here are the specs they had on the windows. Is this what you meant?
15212638401972049993071.jpg
 

Oswego

n00b
Solar heat Gain: Lower the solar heat gain coefficient the better for your region. Less solar heat it transfers. Rating is from 0-1. Good rating for what little I know of your region IMHO.

Visible Transmittance: Light allowed in. 10% is typical for highly reflective glass. 90% would be clear glass. Not bad for your area, but not much light is let in. Increased aux lighting is needed as the numbers drop (less light let in). Good rating for what little I know of your region IMHO.

Air Leakage:
0.3 is max loss allowed. So most say less than .3. Basically in high winds when the windows are under pressure these will leak max amount allowed. This is the framing system. Double hung windows are a poor design to begin with so they will always have worse numbers.

U-Factor:
Energy efficient windows start at .3 or lower. Slider is almost max allowed for energy efficient windows. Double hungs are much better.

All in all I never work residential or your region so take anything I say with a grain of salt. What I will say is that for a tipple pain window to let that much air leakage through - they could of done better. That said - my Anderson Windows I put in my house have the same rating for air leakage, but they are also over a decade old and only double pain. Ill never understand why the window companies put all this time and effort into having the other factors be good when air is leaking through. This is why Ill never use double hungs if I ever move north and build. Sliders are basically the same design as double hungs. Awning windows are the best from what I have read.

Gubment recommendations for your reference (I should be shooting for blue and you red):
energy-star-united-states.jpg


@xJuice - what say you fellow glazier? This is your backyard so maybe you could provide better insight to him?
 
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Oswego

n00b
I want to build some doors like this for my house but have never messed with glass at all. Any of you glass guys have any guidance for me? Also I'm probably gonna have to beef up the door structure as this will probably be ungodly heavy.

Looks like they have offset pivots. Stay away from them on heavy ass doors - heck I don't use them whenever I can - they suck IMHO.

I'd either use a Roton Hinge or Center Pivot. Rotons are a dime a dozen so I won't go into them.

For center pivots look up either Dorma or Rixson Walking beam pivots for the head. Depending on weight Dorma has a good bottom pivot # 7471HD and Rixson has a similar pivot.

If you want the door controlled by a closer a Rixson or Dorma floor closer would work great on a heavy ass door. Dorma BTS 80 is the model or a Rixson PH28.

Do not rely on the glass to be a structural aid to the door and installing the glass will be easier. Door should be strong without the glass. Setting the glass can be easy so long as the door is thick enough to fit the hardware and thickness of the insulated glass unit. feel free to spitball ideas and Ill comment



And all of you with garages connected to living spaces should have closers on the doors. It's code in Canada, but the US is lacking in proper safety for garages connected to living spaces IMO. Doors should also be smoke & fire rated.
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
I am a big +1 on the fire rated doors part. It is sad how fast most home interior doors will burn up.
 

achirdo

2WD FTW

Air Leakage:
0.3 is max loss allowed. So most say less than .3. Basically in high winds when the windows are under pressure these will leak max amount allowed. This is the framing system. Double hung windows are a poor design to begin with so they will always have worse numbers.

U-Factor:
Energy efficient windows start at .3 or lower. Slider is almost max allowed for energy efficient windows. Double hungs are much better.

All in all I never work residential or your region so take anything I say with a grain of salt. What I will say is that for a tipple pain window to let that much air leakage through - they could of done better. That said - my Anderson Windows I put in my house have the same rating for air leakage, but they are also over a decade old and only double pain. Ill never understand why the window companies put all this time and effort into having the other factors be good when air is leaking through. This is why Ill never use double hungs if I ever move north and build. Sliders are basically the same design as double hungs. Awning windows are the best from what I have read.

Gubment recommendations for your reference (I should be shooting for blue and you red):


@xJuice - what say you fellow glazier? This is your backyard so maybe you could provide better insight to him?

So they don't appear to be horrible then? They look really good!

I wonder for the air leakage if that's just the standard number they use and don't test each one down any further?

As for the slider v double hung I went slider on purpose. It dropped the window bill by probably 40%. I converted a bunch of sets of double hungs to sliders making one big window where it used to be 2.
 

achirdo

2WD FTW
Looks like they have offset pivots. Stay away from them on heavy ass doors - heck I don't use them whenever I can - they suck IMHO.

I'd either use a Roton Hinge or Center Pivot. Rotons are a dime a dozen so I won't go into them.

For center pivots look up either Dorma or Rixson Walking beam pivots for the head. Depending on weight Dorma has a good bottom pivot # 7471HD and Rixson has a similar pivot.

If you want the door controlled by a closer a Rixson or Dorma floor closer would work great on a heavy ass door. Dorma BTS 80 is the model or a Rixson PH28.

Do not rely on the glass to be a structural aid to the door and installing the glass will be easier. Door should be strong without the glass. Setting the glass can be easy so long as the door is thick enough to fit the hardware and thickness of the insulated glass unit. feel free to spitball ideas and Ill comment



And all of you with garages connected to living spaces should have closers on the doors. It's code in Canada, but the US is lacking in proper safety for garages connected to living spaces IMO. Doors should also be smoke & fire rated.
How is the glass supported and kept weatherproof?
 

Anathollo

Armorall is my choice of lube
Staff member
How is the glass supported and kept weatherproof?

Build a rectangle out of angle steel, allow thickness for weatherstripping and use screws for the inside to hold the glass in.
 
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