What have you done to your ride lately?

Jandrews

Well-Known Member
Ok, so this weekend might not be a go for me after all...turns out most of the guys ordering these spacers are seeing multi-week ship times...gonna call 'em tomorrow and see what's up...may just cancel the order and go with spidertrax. Either way, I'd probably miss this weekend.
 

Lrgrnr

Well-Known Member
Gotta work this weekend anyway.........I know Cliff had a set of 1" spacers for sale, I'll ask and see. I just sold a set lol.
 

Jandrews

Well-Known Member
I'm lookin' for 1.25".

I'ma call these guys at BORA tomorrow and see what's up. If it's going to take more than a few days to ship, fuck it. I'll cancel the order and go spidertrax. Trax can ship tomorrow and is the same price.
 

Lrgrnr

Well-Known Member
So you run the same weight in the crawler? 75W-90? I'm gonna stock up on t-case fluids this week for crawler install someday lol

You'll notice that it has a loud whine at hwy speeds with just 75-90. I ran a Lucas oil 75/90, 85/140 blend and it made no noise, but was a bitch to shift in the cold with the thick oil.

The Heavy Shock Proof Redline I'll be trying has "Film thickness greater than an SAE 75W250, yet low fluid friction like 75W90"

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=44&pcid=8

A few pointers when you do the install, clearance the fuck out of the underbelly, Sound proof the under belly somehow, or paint it with some kind of sound deadening, Also move your ebrake bracket under the cup holder over to the driver side out of the way of the shifters, this will make it 10x easier to route the shifters when you clock the t-case.
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Cool. I'll have to buy some of that stuff. I'm assuming the crawler has no syncro in it so no worries about that. I plan on royally beating on the truck real soon :)
 

Lrgrnr

Well-Known Member
Cool. I'll have to buy some of that stuff. I'm assuming the crawler has no syncro in it so no worries about that. I plan on royally beating on the truck real soon :)

Yeah, no synco in the crawler. you'll have to cut a little too :) You plan on clocking it?

Get that shit together and follow Scott down here to Crozet.
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Yeah, no synco in the crawler. you'll have to cut a little too :) You plan on clocking it?

Get that shit together and follow Scott down here to Crozet.

I'd like to do 10* or maybe 15*, whatever will get me close to a flat belly down the road. I want enough room and don't want to have to pull the drivetrain again to rework it for the flatbelly. If scott is still alive I'll be following, if not I'll just drive find it myself :) It sucks I can't even use 4wd right now since my tacoma actuator is FUBAR so this FJ case needs to go in soon, I am going to get the driveshafts made up next week and all fluids in stock!
 

Lrgrnr

Well-Known Member
I'd like to do 10* or maybe 15*, whatever will get me close to a flat belly down the road. I want enough room and don't want to have to pull the drivetrain again to rework it for the flatbelly. If scott is still alive I'll be following, if not I'll just drive find it myself :) It sucks I can't even use 4wd right now since my tacoma actuator is FUBAR so this FJ case needs to go in soon, I am going to get the driveshafts made up next week and all fluids in stock!

sweet......TO get mine above the frame I had to also put a 1/2" shim at the tranny mount. Go to a local metal shop and just get a 4"x 3" (or whatever the size is) piece of 1/2" stock and make you a plate to lift it all up. I think mine is at 15* with the 1/2" shim and it's about 1/8"-1/4" above the frame rails.

Just make sure you have at least 1-1.5" of clearance between the body and t-case. Alot of movement goes on under there with those 4.7's.

Also use the grey RTV in the aerosol can, Tough Stuff, or something like that. Stuff works really good but it's pricey. Be sure you seal that fucker up good also, clean and prep the surfaces, and go around all the bolt holes. Mine leaked like a bitch when we first installed.

That's about all I can think of, When you planning on installing?
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
sweet......TO get mine above the frame I had to also put a 1/2" shim at the tranny mount. Go to a local metal shop and just get a 4"x 3" (or whatever the size is) piece of 1/2" stock and make you a plate to lift it all up. I think mine is at 15* with the 1/2" shim and it's about 1/8"-1/4" above the frame rails.

Just make sure you have at least 1-1.5" of clearance between the body and t-case. Alot of movement goes on under there with those 4.7's.

Also use the grey RTV in the aerosol can, Tough Stuff, or something like that. Stuff works really good but it's pricey. Be sure you seal that fucker up good also, clean and prep the surfaces, and go around all the bolt holes. Mine leaked like a bitch when we first installed.

That's about all I can think of, When you planning on installing?

Cool thanks for the tips. I called the driveline shop by my place today so I'm going to drop off the front driveshaft and 4runner double cardan shaft to them next week. $300 total to do the front/rear modifications and they will also redrill my t-case and diff pinion flanges. Hope the end of september to install I want to make sure I have all the stuff I'm going to need, don't want it sitting on jackstands waiting for parts lol I've learned that lesson before

I'm hoping to put one of these fuckers on the ass end eventually to keep it from moving too much
WATRD-xmem.jpg
 

TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
Cool thanks for the tips. I called the driveline shop by my place today so I'm going to drop off the front driveshaft and 4runner double cardan shaft to them next week. $300 total to do the front/rear modifications and they will also redrill my t-case and diff pinion flanges. Hope the end of september to install I want to make sure I have all the stuff I'm going to need, don't want it sitting on jackstands waiting for parts lol I've learned that lesson before

I'm hoping to put one of these fuckers on the ass end eventually to keep it from moving too much
WATRD-xmem.jpg

Personally not a fan - and I have one on the truggy. All engines IMO should and are normally mounted with 3 points (including aircraft engines) - it minimizes using the power plant as a structural member. IMO find a way to have one mount back there - that way you will not be one of the many that have cracked a t-case.
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Personally not a fan - and I have one on the truggy. All engines IMO should and are normally mounted with 3 points (including aircraft engines) - it minimizes using the power plant as a structural member. IMO find a way to have one mount back there - that way you will not be one of the many that have cracked a t-case.

Hmm yeah I'm still sorting the mount out. Figure I can without an extra one for a while until I decide on what to do. I guess the other option is to use a HD t-case mount on the crawler. Don't want too much drivetrain hanging over the ass end
 

Lrgrnr

Well-Known Member
Also those send vibrations through the cab severely. I would pass on that idea.


Find a t-case crossmember out of an older pickup, make you a mount and crossmember for the crawler, problem solved.
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Also those send vibrations through the cab severely. I would pass on that idea.


Find a t-case crossmember out of an older pickup, make you a mount and crossmember for the crawler, problem solved.

Yeah that may be what I end up doing or picking up a mount from 4x innovations. Just spent $100 on gear oil today, 4 qts MT90 for the tranny/tcase and 2 qts of the heavy duty shockproof. Had some summit bucks laying around that needed to be used up :)
 

TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
I know many of you guys do the shock this or shock that, synth gear oil. I'm just wondering... are you guys running 1800 HP dragsters? :)
 

drew02a

Moderator
Staff member
I know many of you guys do the shock this or shock that, synth gear oil. I'm just wondering... are you guys running 1800 HP dragsters? :)

No, but there are a few who spin their tires up and get traction all of a sudden :D

Also, operating at an extreme angle means the gears won't always be lubricated. Heavy shockproof stuff stick to the metal really well.
 

Lrgrnr

Well-Known Member
I like the shock proof stuff for the crawler because it's thick like the 85/140 which keeps noise down but it has the characteristics of 75/90
 
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