Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Where did you get them? I picked up some 5w Cree led backup bulbs, they are bright as shit!!
What have you done to your ride lately?
- Thread starter jdmcq
- Start date
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Just tapped into the stock tail light harness, no inline resistor required. You only need the resistor if you swap completed to LED lights as the resistance going to the flasher is significantly reduced
Creativelightings.com They are the "double density" ones. Not a bad price and they came fully waterproofed with the quick disconnect on there already.
http://www.creativelightings.com/Led-POD-Lights-LED-Motorcycle-Lights-LED-Accent-Lights-s/20.htm
Oswego
n00b
I just grabbed 10' of IP 66 strips last month in red with 3 weather proof connectors for $71.85 ($7.41 per foot) from superbriteled's. Later I looked for a better price and Fleebay amazed me. I thought I got a good deal with using a "10% discount code" and was not happy when I saw I could of spent far less.
The first digit number 6 means that the instrument has total dust ingress protection.
IP 65-66 is really "weatherproof". The ones you got are IP 66 which is a typical rating.
Test duration: at least 3 minutes
Water volume: 100 litres per minute
Pressure: 100 kPa at distance of 3 m
IP 67 is waterproof for a small time
Test duration: 30 minutes
Immersion at depth of at least 1 m measured at bottom of device, and at least 15 cm measured at top of device
IP 68 is submersible
Test duration: continuous immersion in water
Depth specified by manufacturer so if you compare two similar products one could go to 300meters and the other 3meters and both would still be IP 68
and Josh's Ridgid IP68 lights fill with water when it rains
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
I just grabbed 10' of IP 66 strips last month in red with 3 weather proof connectors for $71.85 ($7.41 per foot) from superbriteled's. Later I looked for a better price and Fleebay amazed me. I thought I got a good deal with using a "10% discount code" and was not happy when I saw I could of spent far less.
The first digit number 6 means that the instrument has total dust ingress protection.
IP 65-66 is really "weatherproof". The ones you got are IP 66 which is a typical rating.
Test duration: at least 3 minutes
Water volume: 100 litres per minute
Pressure: 100 kPa at distance of 3 m
IP 67 is waterproof for a small time
Test duration: 30 minutes
Immersion at depth of at least 1 m measured at bottom of device, and at least 15 cm measured at top of device
IP 68 is submersible
Test duration: continuous immersion in water
Depth specified by manufacturer so if you compare two similar products one could go to 300meters and the other 3meters and both would still be IP 68
and Josh's Ridgid IP68 lights fill with water when it rains
Yeah I saw they didn't have a IP67 or 68 rating but these sit pretty high on the bumper so I would hope I'm never that deep in water. Also since they are facing the rear of the bumper they should never really take any rain "directly" when I'm driving at speed. It took me an hour or so of surfing the web to find a 12" prewired amber LED strip that had a black PCB, since the white would have looked stupied in contrast to the black bumper
We will see how they hold up. They didn't break the bank so I'm not too worried
Mauzer
Pitter Patter. Lets Get at Er
Pulled my stock toyota 4.88 rear diff and replaced with my new (to me) cryo'd 4.88 diff with ARB locker. Just need to finish wiring up my new compressor and run the airlines. Sold/swapped my old 4.88 into a buddy's 4runner. Still need to install my front 4.88 w/ ARB
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Nice!!!
Ordered 1/8" BPST to 1/4" push lock fittings from Mcmaster Carr and 10' of 1/4" OD air brake hose...and now we wait
Oh yeah, my rear diff is setup to use 1/4" hose instead of the 5mm ARB airline just in case you where wondering
I think I have a bunch of that 5mm air line if you need it
SamSter0077
Frack me..
Finally fixed my window.. again... Removed the stock window from the body cutout finally, what a BITCH! thanks for the tip Ray, Goo Gone and a razorblade worked like a charm. Installed it last night, body is dented at the bottom so it's not perfect, but looks a lot better. I will NOT break those quarter windows again.. argh. if I do, it's getting replaced with sheet metal.
You just need to chop the back half off like Mossy Runner
Oswego
n00b
My buddy picked up a Samari off Pirate for 7k shipped from CO last year and they chopped it right in the middle of the rear window. Did a great job on the chop as well. The only way the untrained eye can tell is because the rear windows are plexi glass.
SamSter0077
Frack me..
if had to kind of skill it takes to make it look good, i would. I would like to cut it off past the back door, cage it, and get some kind of softtopper for the back.. of course, I could just buy a 1st gen 4runner..
thekidcatcher
Well-Known Member
Put the new cv in and am waiting for the bushings to be replaced at the dealer
thekidcatcher
Well-Known Member
I dunno what all the fuss is about those cv's. I have this angle pry bar that pops those bitches out with about 3 tries and I don't have to mess with those damn slide hammers or even take my skid plate off . No word on the bushing yet.
. No word on the bushing yet.
I dunno what all the fuss is about those cv's. I have this angle pry bar that pops those bitches out with about 3 tries and I don't have to mess with those damn slide hammers or even take my skid plate off
Sometimes they're easy... but most of the time, they're a pain in the dick
TacoXpo
HOAX DENIER
You can always shave or reshape the retaining clip - I am certain that unless you are in a wicked accident, the inner CV isn't going to pop out.
thekidcatcher
Well-Known Member
That's true too. Unless that outer one goes somewhere it is highly unlikely the inner one is going to move