bakerla's no name Tacoma
- Thread starter bakerla
- Start date
Go with OEM or some good aftermarket lights?
Taco Loco
Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
Taco Loco
Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
Yes sir, understand, I replaced mine with cheap aftermarket ones, and they suck to adjust the bulb/beam direction
I did one of the restoration kits with results that were not worth the time invested in it.
Yep, they are a PIA to adjust
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
I've used the Meguiars headlight restoration kit with reasonable results. The headlights didn't look new by any means, but they didn't look like crap either.
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
It just prevents rust... carry on.
bakerla
Man, Myth, Legend
Since last update I've replaced the inner and outer tie rods (Low Range Off-road and Moog), both LCAs and alignment hardware (OEM) and the driver side CV axle (OEM) while installing the ECGS bushing as well. Thanks for @Anathollo for loaning the tool to pull the needle bearing out. I did the LCAs and CV axle this Labor Day weekend.
Goofed up on the install of the axle oil seal when doing the CV axle. I tapped it in too far which resulted in a immediate leak upon test drive. Had to pull the CV axle again. That oil seal needs to be flush and a 2"piece of PVC works well to drive the drive side seal in.
The LCA replacement went well. Only had one seized up sleeve that had to be cut. FWIW, all the OEM LCA alignment cam tab bolt hardware is quite pricey ($150ish), but from what I've read aftermarket sucks. I replaced all hardware whether needed or not.
Goofed up on the install of the axle oil seal when doing the CV axle. I tapped it in too far which resulted in a immediate leak upon test drive. Had to pull the CV axle again. That oil seal needs to be flush and a 2"piece of PVC works well to drive the drive side seal in.
The LCA replacement went well. Only had one seized up sleeve that had to be cut. FWIW, all the OEM LCA alignment cam tab bolt hardware is quite pricey ($150ish), but from what I've read aftermarket sucks. I replaced all hardware whether needed or not.
bakerla
Man, Myth, Legend
I'm having trouble finding the description and part # for this pictured part. Some years ago the threads were stripped to where a different bolt for the front skid plates needs to be used. I've like to replace it so all the same hardware is used instead of 3 bolts and 1 bolt. Anybody point me in the right direction?
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
I'm having trouble finding the description and part # for this pictured part. Some years ago the threads were stripped to where a different bolt for the front skid plates needs to be used. I've like to replace it so all the same hardware is used instead of 3 bolts and 1 bolt. Anybody point me in the right direction?
Why do you still have this piece installed? Seems like an aftermarket skid should already be on your truck. Especially since I'm pretty sure that is a fumoto valve I see behind it.
Even @Silverback 's favorite brand AllPro would be better than stock and I think they are 10% off right now.
bakerla
Man, Myth, Legend
I've got Budbuilt skids. This piece has the two threaded holes where the skid attaches. It was stripped and retapped to accept a different diameter bolt.
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
I didn't realize the BudBuilt reused those pieces. I think all others, or at least most others, remove those 2 pieces.
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Cut off the old nut, weld on the correct one. Done.
X2.